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欧文 佩恩

On Assignment

About 欧文 佩恩

歐文・佩恩 (Irving Penn,1917-2009) 出生於新澤西州Plainfield市。1934年至1938年,他在費城博物館工業藝術學院(Philadelphia Museum School of Industrial Art) 專攻設計,師從阿列克謝・布魯多維奇(Alexey Brodovitch)。他在墨西哥繪畫一年後回到紐約市,1943年開始在《Vogue》雜誌工作,當時的藝術總監為亞歷山大・利伯曼(Alexander Liberman)。 佩恩為美國和國外商業客戶如《Vogue》拍攝作品幾近七十年。無論是別樹一格的時尚形象、光彩奪目的肖像畫或扣人心弦的靜物畫,每張照片均具有佩恩只此一家的簡約優雅審美風格。 除了編輯、廣告和個人作品外,佩恩也是一位版畫大師。1964年開始,他開創了一種鉑鈀印刷的複雜技術。鉑鈀印刷本來是一種十九世紀的印刷工藝,而佩恩將其應用在二十世紀的材料之上,開創先河。 佩恩一生曾在超過四十所博物館舉行重要展覽,包括紐約現代藝術博物館(The Museum of Modern Art)、華盛頓國家藝廊(The National Gallery of Art)、洛杉磯保羅蓋蒂博物館(The J. Paul Getty Museum),及2017年在紐約大都會藝術博物館 (The Metropolitan Museum of Art)舉行的百歲紀念展覽。

Press Release

  • Irving Penn: On Assignment

    510 West 25th Street, New York

    September 13 – October 26, 2013

    Pace and Pace/MacGill Gallery are honored to present Irving Penn: On Assignment, a survey of photographs, magazines and ephemera from the six-decade career of the iconic American photographer Irving Penn (1917–2009). The exhibition will feature images Penn took while working “on assignment” for publications such as The New Yorker, Vogue, Look and Vanity Fair and advertising campaigns for Clinique and De Beers, among others, for which he produced some of the most compelling fashion photographs, portraits and still lifes of our time. Irving Penn: On Assignment will be on view at 510 West 25th Street from September 13 through October 26, 2013.

    Widely recognized as one of the most prolific and respected photographers of the 20th century, Irving Penn began his photographic career in 1943 at the suggestion and encouragement of Vogue’s then Art Director, Alexander Liberman. The first color photograph Penn made on assignment for Vogue appeared on the cover of the October 1st issue that same year – the first still life cover in the magazine’s history – and Liberman immediately “sensed that we were in the presence of a major new vision, with infinite possibilities for growth and discovery.”

    Penn developed that artistic vision over the next sixty years, shooting more than 150 covers for Vogue between 1943 and 2004 (a selection of which will be on view), creating celebrated portraits of leading cultural figures such as Pablo Picasso, Truman Capote, and Miles Davis, and producing groundbreaking fashion editorials noted for their natural lighting and formal simplicity. With an elegance and economy of composition, Penn’s 1950 pictures of the Paris couture collections revised the visual aesthetics of fashion photography, and the act of placing his subjects – whether a model in Balenciaga, a Dahomey native, or tradesperson dressed in work clothes – against a seamless, neutral backdrop without context or narrative became a signature trademark of Penn’s style. This approach produced photographs that focused on the subject, rather than the environment in which they might have been found. The deft craft of his still lifes abstracted transformed common objects into elements of modern artistic expression. Liberman reflected in Penn’s 1991 book, Passage, that, “...so clear was Penn’s concept, he could move without great convolutions from still life, to fashion, to portraits, to the world outside.” Likewise, the iconic quality of Penn’s images, not to mention the exquisite execution of his handcrafted prints, quickly transcended the printed page, as his photographs made their way from magazines to museum walls in New York and beyond. As John Szarkowski wrote in the catalogue accompanying Penn’s 1984 retrospective at The Museum of Modern Art, New York:

    ...Penn’s professional work elevates itself and its role by virtue of its great refinement of craft. The grace, wit, and inventiveness of his pattern-making, the lively and surprising elegance of his line, and his sensitivity to the character, the idiosyncratic humors, of light make Penn’s pictures, even the slighter ones, a pleasure for our eyes.

    Penn’s photography has been the subject of numerous exhibitions worldwide. Recent exhibitions include Irving Penn: Small Trades at the J. Paul Getty Museum, Los Angeles (2009-2010); Irving Penn: Portraits at the National Portrait Gallery, London (2010); Irving Penn: Diverse Worlds at the Moderna Museet, Malmo (2012), which travelled to the Kumu Art Museum, Tallinn, and is currently on view; and Irving Penn: Underfoot at the Art Institute of Chicago (2013). His work can be found in both domestic and international museum collections, including the Art Institute of Chicago; Maison Européenne de la Photographie, Paris; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; the Moderna Museet, Stockholm; the Morgan Library and Museum, New York; The Museum of Modern Art, New York; and the National Gallery of Art, Washington, D.C.

    Penn has published multiple books of photographs: Moments Preserved (1960); Worlds in a Small Room (1974); Inventive Paris Clothes (1977); Flowers (1980); Issey Miyake (1988); Passage (1991); Still Life (2001); A Notebook at Random (2004); Photographs of Dahomey (2004); as well as two books of drawings. Monographs of his work include: Irving Penn (1984); Irving Penn: Master Images (1990); Irving Penn: A Career in Photography (1997); Dancer (2001); Earthly Bodies: Irving Penn’s Nudes, 1949-50 (2002); Irving Penn: Platinum Prints (2005); Irving Penn: Small Trades (2009); Irving Penn: Portraits (2010); Irving Penn: Archæology (2010); Irving Penn: Cigarettes (2012); and Irving Penn: Cranium Architecture (2013).

    For more information about Irving Penn: On Assignment or press requests, please contact Jessica Mostow at Pace/MacGill Gallery, 212.759.7999 or jessica@pacemacgill.com.

    For general inquiries, please email info@pacemacgill.com.